Comprehensive Guide
Learn more in our Loans & Mortgage Guide.
How it works
A subprime auto loan is financing priced for elevated default risk — conventionally anything above roughly 10% APR, with deep-subprime contracts reaching the usury ceiling. The rate arrives framed as a monthly payment, which is precisely how its cost disappears: $496 a month sounds survivable, so nobody multiplies it out. This calculator does the multiplying. It finances the car at both the offered subprime rate and the rate a good-credit borrower would command, then reports the lifetime interest gap, the monthly gap, and the extra interest measured against the car's own price — the wake-up metric. On the defaults, $22,000 financed for 72 months at 17.5% accrues about $13,700 of interest versus $4,600 at 6.5%: an extra $9,000, equal to 38% of the vehicle's price, spent on nothing visible. The structural trap compounds — underwater from day one, such loans invite rollovers into the next subprime deal, converting one expensive car into a chain of them. The constructive exits are equally concrete: enlarge the down payment, shorten the term, buy less car, or defer twelve months while payment history rebuilds the score. And once refinancing becomes available, the same arithmetic runs in reverse, recovering thousands.Formula
Extra interest = [payment(price−down, subRate, n) − payment(price−down, primeRate, n)] × n
Tips
- Read the 'total of payments' box on the contract before signing anything.
- Every $1,000 added to the down payment saves roughly $400+ in subprime interest.
- Shorten the term before lowering the payment — 48 months halves the bleed.
- Twelve on-time payments usually unlock refinance offers; calendar the check.
- Decline the payment-seller framing: always ask for rate, term and price separately.